Tomas Sobotka and Jirka Lautner put up City of gods, 8a+, on Sugarloaf Mountain in Rio de Janeiro (Brazil). The route has become the hardest line on Sugarloaf mountain. Tomas and Jirka worked on the route three days and then they succesfully redpointed it.
Topo of City of Gods, Sugarloaf Mountain
Photo courtesy of Petr Jandík, (c) www.horyinfo.cz
Jirka Lautner on City of gods, 8a+
Photo courtesy of Tomas Sobotka
Czech team, Tomáš Sobotka and Jirka Lautner, thank Hudy sport, Directalpine, Tendon, Rockempire and ČHS for support.
Written by Jakub Měkota
Sugarloaf Mountain (in Portuguese, Pão de Açúcar), is a peak situated in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, from the mouth of Guanabara Bay on a peninsula that sticks out into the Atlantic Ocean. Rising 396 meters (1,300 ft) above sea-level, its name is said to refer to its resemblance to the traditional shape of concentrated refined loaf sugar. This may, however, be a folk-etymology, since it is believed by some that the name actually derives from Pau-nh-acuqua (“high hill”) in the Tupi-Guarani language, as used by the indigenous Tamoios.
The mountain is only one of several monolithic morros of granite and quartz that rise straight from the water’s edge around Rio de Janeiro. A glass-paneled cablecar (in popular Portuguese, bondinho - more properly called teleférico), capable of holding 75 passengers, runs along a 1400-metre route between the peaks of Babilônia and Urca every half hour. The original cablecar line was built in 1912. So familiar is this peak, the mere sight of it in a film is sufficient to establish the setting as Rio.
Sugarloaf, Rio de Janeiro, Brasil.
Visitors can watch rock climbers on Sugarloaf and the other two mountains in the area: Morro da Babilônia (Babilon Mountain), and Morra da Urca (Urca’s Mountain). Together, they form one of the largest urban climbing areas in the world, with more than 270 routes, between 1 and 10 pitched long. Some classic routes in Sugarloaf are:
- City of gods, 5.13b, 3 pitches. The hardest line on Sugarloaf Mountain.
- Italianos, 5.10a, 2 pitches. Beautiful and well protected face climbing. Can be connect to other routes, in a total of 6 pitchs to the top.
- Stop Chimney, 5.6, 7 pitches. Classic runout but easy chimney.
- Lagartão, 5.11c, 7 pitches. First two pitchs are trad climbing, the rest is bolted.
- Ibis, 5.10d A1, 10 pitches. Runout and comitted. Some parties climb it in two days, sleeping on one of the ledges in the first half of the route.
Rio de Janeiro
Rio de Janeiro (IPA: Portuguese: [ˈhiw dʒi ʒʌˈnejɾu], “River of January”; English [’ɹioʊ deɪ ʒəˈnɛɹoʊ]), is the name of both a state and a city in southeastern Brazil. The city was the capital of Brazil (1763-1960) and of the Portuguese Empire (1808-1821). Commonly known as just Rio, the city is also nicknamed A Cidade Maravilhosa - “The Marvelous City”.
It is famous for its spectacular natural setting, its Carnival celebrations, samba and other music, hotel-lined tourist beaches, such as Copacabana, Ipanema, and Leblon and pavements decorated with black and cream swirl pattern mosaics. Some of the most famous local landmarks in addition to the beaches include the giant statue of Jesus, known as Christ the Redeemer (’Cristo Redentor’) atop Corcovado mountain; Sugarloaf mountain (Pão de Açúcar) with its cable car; the Sambódromo, a giant permanent parade stand used during Carnival; and Maracanã stadium, one of the world’s largest. Rio also boasts the world’s largest forest inside an urban area, called Floresta da Tijuca, or ‘Tijuca Forest’.